瓦爾瑪莊園 & 聖伊莎貝爾莊園 - Valmar & Santa Isabel Farm
Valmar & Santa Isabel Farm 瓦爾瑪莊園 & 聖伊莎貝爾莊園
There is a particular kind of rain in Alta Verapaz that never quite becomes a storm. The locals call it Chipichipi, a fine, persistent drizzle that coats the pine forests, the pastures, the rows of coffee and the white trunks of the shade trees. It is the air Finca Santa Isabel has been breathing since 1875.
阿爾塔維拉帕斯有一種特別的雨,從來不會真正變成暴雨。當地人稱之為「Chipichipi」——那是一層細密而執著的霧雨,附著在松木林、牧草地、成排的咖啡灌木,以及如燈籠般矗立的白樹幹之上。這是聖伊莎貝爾莊園呼吸的空氣,自 1875 年延續至今。
The land that was lost, and found again 曾經失去,終究尋回的土地
In 1875 the land in San Cristóbal Verapaz was granted to the Valdés family by the President of Guatemala. It was a remarkable gift: a highland plateau of fertile volcanic soil, lush with possibility and threaded by abundant water. But gifts can be squandered. Through decades of mismanagement and misfortune, the land slipped from the family's hands entirely.
1875 年,瓜地馬拉總統將聖克里斯托瓦爾維拉帕斯(San Cristóbal Verapaz)的這片土地賜予巴爾德斯家族。這是一份非凡的贈禮——一座地勢高聳、土壤肥沃富含火山養分、水源充沛的高原,充滿無限可能。然而,恩賜也可能消逝。在漫長歲月的經營失策與命運捉弄之下,這片土地終究悄然流失。
What makes this a coffee story, rather than simply a story of loss, is what happened next.
然而,讓這個故事成為一個咖啡故事,而非僅僅是一段失去的故事的,是接下來發生的事。
Repurchased, with intention 不是繼承,而是帶著明確意志的重新購回
The land is granted to the Valdés family土地賜予巴爾德斯家族
A highland plateau of fertile volcanic soil and abundant water, granted by the President of Guatemala.
由瓜地馬拉總統賜予的高原,土壤肥沃、水源充沛。
Luis Valdés I buys the farm back路易斯·巴爾德斯一世將農場買回來
Don Luis’s father repurchased the farm. Not inherited, not gifted: bought back with intention. He had seen what the land could be, and he was determined to restore it.
也就是唐路易斯(Don Luis)的父親。不是繼承,不是受贈,而是帶著明確意志的重新購回。他知道這片土地能夠成為什麼,他決心讓它重生。
The first coffee trees take root第一批咖啡樹落地生根
Within five years of the purchase the first coffee trees were planted, and the inheritance that had once been scattered began to take root again.
五年之內,第一批咖啡樹落地生根,那段曾經離散的傳承,開始重新扎根。
A family at work一個家族,日復一日
Don Luis Valdés Sr. oversees the estate as owner and general manager. His son Rodrigo manages exports through Agricola Valmar S.A. Luis Valdés Jr., known to everyone as Wicho, is the agricultural manager and the fifth generation to work this soil. On school holidays, Wicho’s young son Luis IV walks the rows alongside him.
唐路易斯·巴爾德斯(Don Luis Valdés Sr.)現以業主兼總經理的身份統籌莊園事務;其子羅德里戈(Rodrigo)透過 Agricola Valmar S.A. 負責出口業務;路易斯·巴爾德斯二世(Luis Valdés Jr.),人人喚他 Wicho,擔任農業管理人,是耕耘這片土地的第五代。每逢學校假期,Wicho 的幼子路易斯四世(Luis IV)便跟在父親身旁,一起走過一排排的咖啡樹。
A cloud-forest microclimate unlike any other in Guatemala 瓜地馬拉獨一無二的雲霧森林微氣候
Finca Santa Isabel sits between 1,400 and 1,600 metres above sea level, on a highland plateau that receives close to 3,250 millimetres of rain each year. There is no meaningful dry season here, only the Chipichipi, and the cloud-forest microclimate that makes the Cobán region unlike any other coffee-growing zone in Guatemala.
聖伊莎貝爾莊園海拔介於 1,400 至 1,600 公尺之間,座落於一片每年雨量接近 3,250 毫米的高原之上。這裡幾乎沒有真正的旱季——只有 Chipichipi,以及那一方雲霧繚繞的微氣候,使科班產區有別於瓜地馬拉任何一個咖啡產區。
Nearly 200 hectares of the 300-hectare estate are planted with coffee, but a large part of the land is preserved as untouched native forest. This is not incidental: the forest sustains the microclimate, feeds the soil and gives the farm its ecological integrity.
在總面積 300 公頃的莊園裡,近 200 公頃種植咖啡;而大片土地則完整保留為未開發的原始森林。這並非偶然的安排——正是這片森林維繫著微氣候、滋養土壤,賦予莊園真正的生態完整性。
Treating the land and its people as extensions of the family 將土地與在此工作的人,視為家族的延伸
Shade trees, Inga, Grevillea and the naturally white-barked Laurel Blanco, are pruned with precision, their lower branches stripped so that only a compact crown of green remains at the top of each pale trunk. Those white columns rising from the undergrowth are one of the defining visual signatures of a traditional Guatemalan finca.
遮蔭樹——Inga、銀樺(Grevillea)以及天然白樹皮的白桂(Laurel Blanco)——經過精心修枝,僅在每根淡色樹幹頂端保留一頂緊緻的綠色樹冠。那些從林間升起的白色樹柱,是傳統瓜地馬拉莊園最具代表性的視覺意象之一。
Coffee pulp is composted and returned to the soil. Nutrition programs focus on root health, and pruning regimes are calibrated to manage leaf rust pressure. The farm does not carry a certification, but its philosophy is one of genuine stewardship.
咖啡果皮經堆肥處理後回歸土壤;營養管理計畫聚焦於根系健康;修剪制度則依據葉銹病防治需求精心調整。莊園目前並未持有特定認證,但其核心理念始終是真誠的土地管理。
Six generations of belonging to a single place is not a marketing claim at Finca Santa Isabel. It is simply the rhythm of daily life.
六代人對同一片土地的深厚情感,在聖伊莎貝爾莊園從不是一句行銷話語,而是日常生活最自然的節奏。
The challenge is not growing the coffee, it is drying it 最大的挑戰不是種出好咖啡,而是把它曬乾
The greatest challenge at Finca Santa Isabel is not growing extraordinary coffee. It is drying it in a place where the sky almost never fully clears.
聖伊莎貝爾莊園面臨的最大挑戰,從來不是種出卓越的咖啡,而是如何在一個天空幾乎永遠不會完全放晴的地方,把咖啡曬乾。
Selective hand-picking人工逐顆選摘
Only ripe cherries are picked, by experienced hands.
僅摘取熟透的咖啡果實,由經驗豐富的雙手完成。
A modern wet mill現代化水洗處理廠
Vertical cylindrical depulpers handle different bean sizes without damage, and mechanical water sorting improves selection and reduces waste. Wastewater is treated and recycled on-site.
配備新一代垂直圓柱式去果皮機,可在不損傷豆體的前提下處理不同粒徑,並輔以機械水選提升篩選精度。廢水經處理後在莊園內循環再利用。
Rest, then rotary drying靜置與滾筒烘乾
After full fermentation, all coffee rests at least 24 hours. A fleet of mechanical rotary drying drums, sized for the whole harvest even at peak weeks, follows a 12-hour drying and 12-hour resting cycle. That is rare in the Cobán region, where most farms are at the mercy of the weather.
完整發酵後,所有咖啡至少靜置 24 小時。專為採收高峰期配置的機械式滾筒烘乾機,容量足以消化全莊產量,遵循「烘乾 12 小時、靜置 12 小時」的循環。這在科班產區極為罕見,大多數莊園都只能仰賴天候。
Patio finish, sorted by hand曬場收尾,手工篩選
Patio drying is used only to bring surface humidity below 50%. During this stage, women on the patio sort the parchment by hand, one more layer of human attention before the coffee leaves the farm.
露天曬場僅用於將表層含水量降至 50% 以下;在此階段,莊園女工在曬場上逐一以手工篩選帶殼豆,在咖啡離開莊園之前,再多添一道人工把關。
Cup of Excellence in 2011 and 2012 2011 與 2012 年卓越杯入選
A lot from Finca Santa Isabel placed in Guatemala's Cup of Excellence in both 2011 and 2012, with the 2012 entry earning third in the country. Those results did not happen by accident. They are the outcome of a family that has spent sixty years learning, losing, adapting and refusing to settle.
這支批次曾分別於 2011 年及 2012 年入選瓜地馬拉卓越杯(Cup of Excellence),其中 2012 年更以全國第三名的成績脫穎而出。這樣的成果絕非僥倖,而是一個家族歷經六十年的學習、失去、調適與堅持,所積累出的必然。
It began in high school 故事要追溯到高中時期
Ergos Coffee's connection to Finca Santa Isabel did not begin with a sourcing trip or a cupping table. It began in high school, when Wicho's father, the second generation to tend this land after its return to the family, became a close friend to the people who would eventually carry his coffee to Taiwan. Those are the kinds of relationships that make a bag of green coffee mean something beyond weight and grade.
Ergos Coffee 與聖伊莎貝爾莊園的緣分,並非始於一趟產地採購之旅或一場杯測。故事要追溯到高中時期——Wicho 的父親,這片土地回歸家族後的第二代守護者,與日後將這支咖啡帶到台灣的人,結下了深厚的友誼。正是這樣的情誼,讓一袋生豆的重量遠超過磅秤上的數字。
When you brew this coffee, you are drinking from a farm that was lost and found again, tended by a family that earns its place in the mist every single harvest. Somewhere in San Cristóbal Verapaz, Wicho is walking the rows his great-great-grandparents once dreamed of keeping.
當你沖煮這支咖啡,你喝下的,是一座曾經失去又重新找回的農場,是一個用每一季收成換來在霧中立足之地的家族。此刻,在聖克里斯托瓦爾維拉帕斯的某處,Wicho 正走在他的曾曾祖父母當年夢想守住的那片咖啡園之間。
農場相簿Farm photo album
San Cristóbal Verapaz, Alta Verapaz, Guatemala 瓜地馬拉,阿爾塔維拉帕斯,聖克里斯托瓦爾維拉帕斯
On the Cobán plateau, where warm, humid air rises and the Chipichipi settles over the forest.
位於科班高原,溫暖潮濕的氣流在此上升,Chipichipi 霧雨籠罩著森林。

